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Health & Fitness

Savory Seasons: A Visit to the Vineyard in November

First in line in Row 1. Taking the car to Martha's Vineyard in the off season is an order of magnitude different from the chaos and crush of the summer months. To say nothing of the cost. Taking a car on the boat in November costs half what it does in August. To be fair, that crowded little island doesn't want or need more cars in the summer. Now, they don't care.

The impetus for this two night trip to the Vineyard in November was the fact that the Harbor View Hotel in Edgartown is currently offering "staycation" rates for residents of Cape Cod and the Islands. We've stayed at the Harbor View before and definitely wanted to return. The current rates were too good to ignore. That coupled with half price ferry rates for the car, and it was a no brainer. Listen up, Seniors. We've also discovered that if you're a senior resident of Falmouth, a round trip ticket to the Vineyard from Woods Hole is only $8.50. 

So what does one do on the Vineyard in November? Obviously, beaching and boating won't be on the agenda, but that's okay. That fact also means that the Island will be left to the locals. Having the car will free us to explore free of summer's congestion. Granted, many restaurants will be closed, but those that remain open will be happy to seat us without a reservation. 

When we arrived at Vineyard Haven, we tamped down our inclination to go for the known and have lunch at the Black Dog Tavern. Not that there's anything wrong with that. It's just that we've eaten there a number of times, and we were determined to  try someplace new. Found a total winner in Oak Bluffs. The Slice of Life is a casual cafe open year round. I had a world class fried green tomato BLT. My husband's Turkey Reuben was  equally good. They're open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and are definitely worth a return visit!

Reveling in the wonder of having a parking space in Oak Bluffs, we took a walk through the Camp Meeting Association. Without the crowds, it was a treat to take our time to enjoy the architecture and to take a few pictures. The weather was on our side. The sun was shining and the temperature hovered around 50. 

We then headed to Edgartown to check into the hotel. How can I do justice to the Harbor View? The setting is lovely; the building is pristine and the staff couldn't be more accommodating. The rates may be at off season levels, but nothing else is. 

Edgartown is about as picturesque as it gets. Being here in the Fall invites the luxury of simple wandering around the neighborhoods and marveling at the beautifully maintained homes behind white picket fences.  A number of stores and restaurants were closed in the downtown area, but quite a few were still open. My guess is that once the Christmas Stroll is over in December, the shutters will go up on many places until spring, but that's not the case yet. Good sales abound. I scored a great hat for half price.

One downside to a November visit is that Water Street, the main restaurant at the Harbor View, has stopped dinner service for the season. They're still serving breakfast and Sunday brunch. The upside of this is that we were put in the position of trying a new place. The Wharf Pub restaurant on Main Street was a good discovery. It's divided into two separate areas. A lively bar scene on one side with a separate entrance and a much quieter restaurant on the other side. Popular place even on a Thursday night in November. My husband had a really fresh cod, linguica and vegetable dish over mashed potatoes. I opted for fried oysters. It was a varied menu. People near us had hamburgers that looked really good. Reasonable prices and good food. 

Friday morning. Sun is shining. Predicted to flirt with 60 today. Ready to head out and explore the island. Love having a car here!  But first, breakfast. In spite of the fact that The Harbor View has the best breakfast on or off the Island, our commitment to explore untried options remained firm, and we headed out the door. I had read about a local place called the Dock Street Diner. No frills; counter service only and reputed to have simple, great food. We joined a group of locals at the counter; watched our bacon and eggs prepared by a master of his craft and started our day with a smile.

First stop was Morning Glory Farm just a mile or so outside of Edgartown. They stay open until the end of December, and the farm stand was lush with produce. I bought some winter squash and Yukon Gold potatoes from their own fields, in addition to some of their green tomatoes. I'm hoping to recreate The Slice of Life"s amazing Fried Green Tomato BLT when we get home!  Couldn't resist buying their cookbook as well. 

Next, we decided to head for Aquinnah and the Gay Head Cliffs. Nothing but rock walls and winding roads and farms for miles and miles. This is the hidden island that the carless visitor is unlikely to experience. So beautiful and serene and so different from the ports of entry that entertain hoards of summer visitors. Fall seems to linger longer here. The sun filtered through leaves that had yet to lose their color. Sheep dotted a number of pastures. It's nice to be reminded that the Vineyard is a vibrant farming and fishing community, in addition to a summer playground.

Aquinnah never disappoints. The cliffs and the surge of the surf and the flash of the light as it calls its warning to ships at sea remind us how small we really are in the face of nature's grandeur. It seems more fitting somehow to experience the magic of this place without the chatter and jostling of throngs of people. The food stands and souvenir shops were boarded up, but to experience the true majesty of this place, November was a perfect time to visit.

We then wended our way to Menemsha. Here one can see the Vineyard at work. Fishing boats rule the day. The Menemsha Fish Market in the heart of town has cooked seafood, in addition to fresh. Everything is incredibly fresh for obvious reason. The boats literally pull up and unload their catch at the back door! They also ship all over the country. The 17 foot tall sculpture of the Swordfish Harpooner rises above the dunes near the beach, and is worth viewing in person instead of just on the pages of a pictorial history of the Vineyard.

Back in the car and off to Vineyard Haven. I wanted to visit the Bunch of Grapes bookstore. The downtown area was bustling; all the shops were open. Parking was readily available. Having the car has been a real theme here, but it was great to have a closet on wheels to shed our jackets in the 60 degree weather, to say nothing of having a place to store packages. Okay, I might have taken advantage of some of the great end of the season sales!

On the recommendation of one of the store clerks, we stopped into Waterside Market for lunch. I can only imagine how busy this place must be during the season. It was hopping in November! Fresh soups, sandwiches and salads. Well organized counter service; lots of tables. Perfect lunch spot!After some shopping and the delightfully aimless wandering that vacation can provide, we headed back to Edgartown. Time for a glass of wine in the hotel bar.

As the day edged towards sunset, we grabbed the camera to capture the best light of the day and headed for the lighthouse on the beach at the edge of hotel property. Bittersweet has replaced the beach roses that lined the path on our last visit to the hotel, and the sunsets are much earlier, but the shifting light has a special beauty in the late fall.  The wind is brisk and sharp rather than balmy and I'm grateful for my hat, but nature doesn't provide a much better show than a sunset over the water, no matter what the season.

Following a recommendation from our stay last year, we had dinner at The Grill on Main. A bonus of the off season is that all entrees are buy one and get one free. Needless to say, the restaurant was full. If I'm being honest, I have to say that I was suspicious of a place that would offer that kind of incentive, but my prime rib and my husband's tenderloin were both well prepared and the service was great. Well worth a visit, especially in the late fall!

It goes without saying that the days are shorter in November. The chairs on the hotel porch rock in the breeze without benefit of people. I missed being able to settle out there, book in hand, But the fire inside was inviting, and the couches were deep and comfortable. Each season has its own pleasures.

This is the quiet time. In many ways, the best of times. 

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