Rain or Shine...ing Sea Bike Path

The sky is glowing as I bike out of Woods Hole on the Shining Sea Bike Path on Saturday, with a blustery wind blowing from the southeast (where the summer storms blow in from). But the wind is warm, and once moving along the flat, paved path, it's cool and pleasant—a perfect day to explore.

The bike path, which is one of the biggest draws to Falmouth, is on the reclaimed path of the that were abandoned in the 1960's. This means it's a nice straight line, far from any road except a handful you cross along the way. How rarely do we get to bike on a paved road that is nowhere near a car? It's a special experience, one that makes me wish that cities and towns across the country would have to foresight to install a unique right of way such as this one, which has become such an integral part of Falmouth's daily life.

The bike path was extended last year, and now runs 11 miles from Woods Hole to North Falmouth. I dream that someday it will extend (as the abandoned train tracks still do) all the way to the Cape Cod Canal and hook up with the path that swoops out toward Provincetown—making all of the Cape safely bike-able and connecting us in a green way to our neighbors in Chatham, Wellfleet, Truro and beyond.

I am working towards riding the whole thing round-trip, and yesterday I made it to the five mile marker, which was farther than I have ever gone before.

The first mile out of Woods Hole is in the beech forest, cool and shady. Passing over several old wooden bridges, the bike wheels go thump thump thump on the weathered boards. There are glimpses through the trees of the houses on Fay Road that line a private beach looking out at Vineyard Sound. Tiny footpaths veer off to the right and left with small painted “Private Please” signs.

About a mile up, you get your first big reveal of the ocean. Surf Drive, one of the most beautiful of Falmouth’s many beaches, stretches two miles before you. The surf is crashing today over the breakwaters, the shore is dotted with little cabins on stilts. I think of the people who used to come here on the train, most headed to the ferry to Martha’s Vineyard,  and imagine that this view was an exciting moment as they emerged from the woods and saw Vineyard Sound for the first time, catching a whiff of that distinctive smell of eelgrass drying in the sun and feeling the cool breeze off the water.

On Saturday, the strong southeasterly wind buffets my bike as soon as I emerge from the woods. Along this stretch is the Trunk River, which is a tidal pond that empties into the ocean. Herring run here in season, and fishermen gather at the breakwaters to catch fish drawn to the current. There is another small wooden bridge, and a sign about the life of the tidal river that is worth a stop.

From here, the path veers inland and back into the lee, past several conservation sites with saltwater pond views and walks, toward the main streets of Falmouth. The vista to the left across Oyster Pond is particularly delightful, even on a gray day, with the in the distance. 

Once in Falmouth, you can take a right off the path at the bus station for a pick-me-up at the locally run on Palmer Avenue, or continue onto Main Street for ice cream, homemade fudge, cupcakes and lots of fun local shopping.

I did not stop on Saturday, as the weather was still threatening and I wanted to get as far as I could before it rained.

Going past the village, from the path you can see the back side of the bus station, the Steamship Authority parking lot, and the . Then you are back in the woods again, the canopy high above you and the light filtered green with the glow of the spring leaves.

I make it up to the Sippewisset Marsh (about mile five) before the rain starts coming down in those large droplets that you can almost dodge between but indicate that much more is likely on the way. I pause to look out over the marsh and read a sign posted there about the Wampanoag. It says, among other things, that “Sippewisset” means “place of the brook” and that this was a sacred site for Native Americans on their annual peregrination towards the good fishing and summer hunting off Woods Hole and the islands.

History buffs will enjoy learning that this marsh is also the site of Rachel Carson’s 1950′s- era scientific exploration into the devastating effects of DDT (a pesticide) on the environment, which inspired her to write , the book that launched the environmental movement in the U.S. and prompted Congress to ban the use of DDT. Were she alive today, she would reflect on the sacred beauty of this marsh, once again filled with osprey and many other shore birds. Even with the threatening rain, I pause for several minutes just to soak the beauty of the view.

On the ride home, I pick up the pace as the rain starts to come in earnest. It is all subtlety downhill now, I realize as soon as I turn around, and the trip back is faster and easier. I fall into a nice trance as the rain drips softly from my hat and the view in reverse rushes past. 

Rolling back into Woods Hole—almost two hours and ten miles later—I am ready for a snack and a place to put my wet feet up. Thank goodness Woods Hole has a wonderful collection of restaurants and coffee shops to relax in and explore. 

Read more of Beth Colt's work on her personal blog.